Hakama lenght cont; crotch height

[mark]

Munenmus' question on hakama lenght hit home. I have found it very difficult to get adequate information on how to properly fit a hakama.

Every hakama manufacturers seems to have their own hakama cut which varies according to size and sometimes fabric. They vary 1) the inseam of the leg or leg lenght, 2) the height of the crotch in relation to the front belt (stomach size), 3) the height of the crotch versus the back belt (seat size), 4) the depth of the side slits, and 5) the maximum amount of spread between the front and back belts (waist size). Although I can get most hakama's to look descent, it would be nice to know what is a proper fitting Hakama.

Getting back to Munenmus' question I can vary the lenght of my Hakama simply by shifting the height of the pant crotch. I have not been able to figure out what is the proper wear height. Assuming I can find a hakama with the proper fit: should I wear the crotch like normal pants, 2) 4-8 inches lower, or 3) like FUBU streat wear (more than 8 inches)?

[Neil Gendzwill]

Don't worry about the crotch, worry about the waist and the hem. The waistband should be about at the belt level for a normal pair of pants. The koshiita (the hard part at the back) should be in the small of your back. The hem should be slightly below ankle height, with the front lower than the back.

[BigG]

Its lots of fun getting hakama to fit when you're 6'5'' lol

[Kendoboy]

I just ordered one size bigger than the measured size and had it hemmed. It was only 3 inches too long when I got it, but now fits perfect!

[mark]

Neils ideal placement, on an ideal lanky kendo body would provide a 5 to 10 degree angle between the front belt and the koshiita. The hip bones anchor the belts and the differentials between the front of hakama the koshiita, and the way we loop, hook and knot the two belts provide several v shaped leverages to keep everything in place.

Unfortunately, my problem is that my body is far from kendo perfect. I have a cantaloup shaped stomach caused by years of full sit-ups and by being quite overweight. I also have a very long upper body and wide shoulders. A great body for grappling, not so great for kendo. Sizing of my judo, karate, or aikido uniforms was always quite easy, but it does not seem that way for kendo!

If I place the front of the Hakama on my belly button and the koshiita in the small of my back, the front is higher than the back creating a minus 35 degree angle. Since my stomach will shift by up to 4 inches while breathing, the hakama will slip down during practice. What a pain! I notice that several other larger kenchis also seem to have the same problem.

Another solution that several older large kenshis seem to have found is to place the front belt bellow their belly and the koshiita in the small of their back. This creates a 45 to 65 degree angle between the front belt and the koshiita. When I tried to copy them, the crotch on my hakama's hangs bellow my knees, the side slits open when I move, and my keikogi tends to open.

My current work around, is to have the center over my belly with front belts crossing almost three inches lower near my belly button. I place the koshiita slightly higher than the font belt. It unfortunately ends up just bellow my shoulder blades. The crotch ends up at a height similar to normal pants. I know that this interferes with hara but it does not slip and surprisingly enough does not look silly. I have seen other large kenshi's wear their hakama's that way. I discussed it with them and they were not all that happy with it either.

I currently buy my hakama's based on my weight and my height. I think I end up with hakama's that have too much length from the crotch to the belts. I might need two or three sizes smaller!

If I knew the proper placement of the crotch I could have my tailor figure out the right measurements and go to my retailers for the right size.